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Tripling
Hail pours from an angry sky as the unseasonably severe storm rumbles thunderously about the mountain tops. Meanwhile Jess, Pop and I enjoy steaming chilly chicken and paneer korma relishing our decision to listen to Gidhari. We tripled our way up into the mountains on the Enfield to visit our friend in Dhanaulti, and he convinced us to stay on an extra day at the guest house I think of as his. We’d complied on a whim, but had we not a miserable ride would have awaited once the weather turned. Issy took the three of us over a hundred km’s and up more then 6000 ft without breaking stride. She’d still accelerate in third gear even on the steeps if we were going at a good enough clip. Some nights while in the mountains we watched the lights of Dehra Dun shimmer like a sea of stars.
Back in the valley Children giggle, fire crackles and sparks fly as I scrape sweet potatoes from the coals. Hobo dinners Indian style, who needs foil ;-) I whipped up these cave man hors d’oeuvre while Vikrant mixed a dizzying array of spices, tomatoes, garlic, onions, carrots and rice giving rise to Biryani fit for a far more discerning palate. Fortunately neither Pop nor the 15 9-year olds we took camping for the first time were picky eaters. In fact we’ve met with a lot of accepting folks recently.
Models, astronauts, doctors and a princess were rubbing shoulders with farmers, tailors, military men and a clown on fancy dress day. Jess and I were faced with the difficult task of judging between the costumes kids put together and I think we took the whole thing as seriously as those who won the prizes.
It has been a lovely time moseying our way about Uttarakhand and all three of us have had a blast. Jess had to leave recently though and things have a different feel to them now. I was continually amazed at her willingness and ability to dive in and help with Pop. From riding the Enfield and keeping him centered to teaching me how diapers are fitted and how to dress a nasty infection Pop got, she is beyond an able ally. I’m so glad Pop and I had the benefit of her company while we did! Bikku has recovered from a serious cold and it’s time to “cowboy up” in several respects. We’re gearing up for a more intensive filming session now that he is well again, and undoubtedly will need to move a bit quicker. I’m excited to up the ante though it will take more energy and in many ways I’m half what I was. Tomorrow we’re heading back to see Ram Das, a hermit and holy man I met last year who Jess, Pop and I found again a few days back. He is still under his tree and was delighted to see us when we arrived. Without a translator we basically just hung out and enjoyed the company. I hope a great deal happens tomorrow and know that after all it is not my strength that plays the major role.
Love to you all,
-Jonathan
Comments
technique
I have been the caregiver for my 68 year old husband, Tony, for many years. He has Huntington’s disease. He is not incontinent. I think that is because he has found a management technique that works for him. Once or twice a day at about the same time, he takes a magazine into the bathroom and reads while he waits for nature to take its course. Sometimes he is there for quite a long while. Your dad’s schedule would probably make it difficult for him, but might be worth a try.
I have become completely enthralled in your project. But if you want me to sit down and shut up, you can tell me. God’s speed from a friend in Oklahoma. Maggie
Great job
Dear Jonathan,
I have a great admiration for you and your project. My husband has Huntington’s Disease and I know the difficulties that you must face every day. The chorea is easy for all to see, but the cognitive and behavior declines are usually more stressful to both the person with HD and the caregiver. You handle it with grace and love.
My husband and I have two adult sons and they, too, love, respect, and dote over their father. It is a joy to watch. The site I linked under “website” belongs to our son Jason. http://atlasfolding.com/ He participates in a computer program sponsored by Stanford University. The program simulates the folding of proteins in the human body and millions of people all of the world donate idle time on their home computers to help gather the information. http://folding.stanford.edu/ The information that is gathered is used by scientists to look for cures to some of the world’s diseases. Huntington’s Disease is on the list.
My son is doing a great job and so are you. I love compassionate young men. Maggie
Email Update November 17
Hello all!
I am staring a five a.m. train departure in the face right now, as I am leaving Dehradun for Delhi in a few short hours. From there, I will make my way to the airport and begin the journey home, through Amsterdam, Seattle, and Anchorage, arriving the night of the 19th. I’ve packed enough into the last few weeks to make the time absolutely race by. After our foray into the mountains in Himachel Pradesh, we took a few days in Dehradun to recuperate and then set off again, this time sans film crew. A few short trial runs had proven that three on the bike was not too much to handle; in fact Peter seemed more secure sandwiched in between the two of us than with no one behind him. We packed the bike lightly and headed up to Rishikesh, where Agape Mission School, founded by the Bhanderis, is located. Staying in a house nearby, we were able to be a part of activities at the school, including the “Fancy Dress and Flower Arranging Competition,” which coincidentally fell on October 31 (Halloween in the U.S.). We weighed our decisions carefully, as the official judges of the creativity of the children’s costumes and their flower arranging prowess. November 14th was Children’s Day, where the teachers sang, danced, put on skits, and organized quiz competitions. By the end of the day, all of the teachers returned to the stage, accompanied by any children who wanted to join, and all danced to the exuberant Bollywood songs that everyone knew the dance moves to. It felt like actually living in a musical. We concluded the day by taking a dozen 9- and 10-year-old boys from the village school out on their first camping expedition. We off-roaded the school bus, set up tents, cooked over campfires, played games, and sang late into the night.
Between activities with the children, we made a circuit up through Mussorie to Dhanaulti, where we spent time with Girdhari, who runs a woolen shop in the mountain town. He accompanied us on our trip in Himachel, so it was fun to visit him. We sat around bonfires each night on the roof of our guesthouse, and one night accepted an invitation to share tandoori chicken with a fellow traveler. We ended up sitting around a fire at a construction site, roasting hunks of spiced chicken and bell peppers, communicating across the language barrier with some workers with the happiest faces I’ve seen in a while. We continued on at a relaxed pace, moving on to Chamba for a night and completing the circuit back in Rishikesh. We stayed in the Luxman Jhula area of Rishikesh, very different from Rishikesh proper, where the school is located. Luxman Jhula is a yoga hub, and the place is filled with laid-back tourists and visitors to the Ganges. I even took a dip, as the water has a very different look and feel (and smell) than downriver in Varanasi. We took a quick trip to Haridwar, where in January seven to 10 million worshippers will descend to celebrate Kumbh Mela, a festival which occurs in Haridwar once every 12 years. Unfortunately, this means Jonathan’s friend, Ramdas, a Saddu (religious hermit) who has been living under the same tree on a street corner for 30 years, will have to relocate. He was quite a character to sit and have tea with.
Our first night up in Himachel, I was given the Indian name “Manu,” which means “one who lifts up the heart.” My own heart is not quite buoyant as I leave this amazing place, but I am looking forward to being home amongst familiar loved ones, the Alaskan winter landscape, and the adventures that await me there. It’s time to switch gears; I’m wondering if the return home will provide more of a culture shock than my entry to India. I’ll get on some picture sharing soon, and Bikku is planning to post some new video clips on Jonathan’s website in the next few days (including some fun snow-cycling footage). I hope this finds you well, once again, and thank you for all of the kind thoughts and messages over the past three months; they were much appreciated. Looking forward to seeing many of you soon!
later,
Jess